Author: Groshan Fabiola
The two main components of
surfing are paddling out and dropping in. While there is definitely a
lot more to surfing, these are two things to master. The best way to
learn how to surf is first hand, so after reading this article, go out
there and surf, surf, surf!
When paddling out to surf, you have a few different choices to make. You can ditch your board, paddle over the top, dive early or try to paddle under the lip. Deciding what to do is all just a
matter of experience. When paddling out, always charge straight at the wave
as hard as you can. Even if you think you're going to get beat by the
wave, just keep paddling straight toward the wave. The wave is moving
toward you, so if you keep moving toward it, you will be surprised at
how quickly you can get there, and possible even slip right under the
The trick to piercing an already broken wave is depth. You need to get
below the broken water of the wave into the calm water below and keep swimming forward. The deeper you can get under the wave, the safer you will be
from the force of the breaking wave. Duck dive deep, or ditch your
surfboard and dive down. As the wave passes over you, push off with
your feet and streamline your body. As soon as you break the surface,
get back on your surfboard and paddle like crazy.
When dropping in on a wave while surfing, always remember that where
your head goes, your body follows. Lead with your head. If you want to
go down the face of the wave, you have to keep your head down. Stretch
your neck, put your chin near the deck of your surfboard, and hurl your
every thought and inspiration down the face of the wave as you paddle.
Only when you are sure you are sliding down the face of the wave should
you slide lithely to your feet and start dealing with your bottom turn.